In my last week in Sweden, I decided to do a little Southern Sweden ‘goodbye’ tour, which started with two days in Gothenburg! Gothenburg is about a 3-hour train ride away from Lund (the closest major train station to me). So I left on a Saturday morning, and arrived by about noon.
Gothenburg is Sweden’s largest city after Stockholm at about 550,000 — Stockholm is about 1.4 million. Like most Swedish coastal cities it was, and still is, a busy port and shipping city. I thought it was a really cool place, its canals and really extensive pedestrian downtown were delightful.
The bike infrastructure in Gothenburg wasn’t as extensive as in Stockholm or Malmo, but I did love the mixed-use trails that ran through the center of the avenues.
One of the landmarks of Gothenburg is its fresh seafood, and the Feskekörka, is an homage to fresh fish. While it is not as large or impressive as many of the saluhallen in other cities in Sweden, but it is beautiful.
Restaurang Gabriel inside the Feskekorka is incredibly popular, and seemed to be more of a draw than the other seafood stalls — and there was a super long line to try their famous fish soup. The Feskekorka and Restaurang Gabriel were featured in the Vice Network’s Munchies Guide to Sweden. I was looking forward to trying the soup, but I am dumb and didn’t make a reservation….
In Gothenburg, many of the city museums are included on one 40-kronor ticket. I went to the Röhsska Museum in the Lorensberg area, where I got to see this fantastic exhibit about the winner of the Torsten and Wanja Söderberg Design Prize, Margrethe Odgaard. She won the prize because of her focused and precise attention to color. She developed a palette of more than 500 colors, which are complementary in any number of combinations. The video about her process was incredibly inspiring:
<p><a href=”https://vimeo.com/187549253″>MARGRETHE ODGAARD Short Doc 2016</a> from <a href=”https://vimeo.com/stavfelproduktion”>STAVFEL PRODUKTION</a> on <a href=”https://vimeo.com”>Vimeo</a>.</p>
It was also very inspiring to see that she keeps ‘color diaries’ of the places that she visits to keep track of inspiring color combinations.
The rest of the museum is dedicated to design history, with a focus on Swedish textiles and objects… It made me want to be, for lack of a better term, better….
There was a little Julmarknad in the Haga district, which is ‘working class’, or in Swedish terms, rather than gorgeous and well-constructed buildings from the 17th and 18th centuries, the district is made up of gorgeous and well-constructed buildings from the 20th century… It was cute, but was mostly tables with gigantic pastries and Christmas-themed tchotkes.
I did wander into this awesome antique shop called Bebop Antik and after the Röhsska Museum I wanted to buy all of it! But it’s hard to put chairs on a plane.
I biked south and meandered around through the Botanic garden, which had several different types of gardens from around the world — that I couldn’t see because it is incredibly cold.
After checking into my AirBnB where my VERY intense host grilled me about everything he had seen in Michael Moore documentaries (oy), I went down the hill to try and see the Röda Sten Museum, BUT there were no exhibits on at the moment… at least I got this dope sunset:
On the morning that I left, I had an amazing brunch at Frid och Fröjd. The proprietors were super sweet and accommodating, and I got all of this awesome food for less than 90 crowns! Highly recommend this cozy cafe on any trip to Gothenburg.
I had a pretty swift, but very mellow (with the exception of the inquisition from my AirBnB host…) trip to Gothenburg. I’d really like to go back in the summer when I could visit the archipelago and spend more than an hour at a time outside, since it was SO cold…